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Rooting Monstera Cuttings

 Rooting Monstera Cuttings indoors during winter in Northern Europe.

While I like rooting my monstera cuttings in a tropical tent, not everyone will have space in their home for a tent. Here follows a downscaled method that should be suitable to all homes and budgets.

3 key things are needed for success:

  • Warmth
  • Bright lighting
  • Humidity

Items needed:

  • A clear plastic bag larger than the cutting to be rooted;
  •  A heat mat 50cm x 25cm was used for this tutorial. The average price being around £18Gbp( €20 Euros , $25 American dollars)
  • A piece of cardboard of the same size as the heat mat.
  • A wide and deep glass jar
  • String;
  • A small light( LED is recommended).
  • A thermometer;
  • A window ledge (preferably North facing to avoid direct sunlight) with mains power available in the vicinity to connect the light and the heat mat.

Putting it all together

Place the cutting the thermometer into the jar and fill with water so that only the bottom half of the cutting is submerged. You might need to trim the aerial root(s) for the cutting to fit in the jar.

Cover the cutting with the plastic bag so that the plastic also covers the glass jar. Next, tie the string firmly around the jar, making a small depression all around the rim so that perspiration will drip back into the jar rather than escape around where the string is tied.

Place the heat mat where it will be located, placing the piece of cardboard beneath it to avoid it getting glued to the surface it rests on

Plug both light and heat mat to the mains and place the jar with the Monstera cutting on the heat mat, somewhere near the middle.

Position the LED light so that there’s a 15 to 20cm distance from light to leaf. A card board box was used here to elevate the light. In a sophisticated setting, you’ll have to improvise.

Last but not least, cut corners of the plastic bag, 1cm will do, for a bit of air flow.

Root growth signs should appear within the first 2 weeks. After 12 weeks plenty of roots should have formed and the moment to make the switch to soil ready. However, be in ni rush to do this. your cutting is safe in water. It’s best to wait till the beggining of March to do the switch.

To be continued!


Monitor for the first 24 hours. It’s unlikely that the temperature will rise above 30C,  but if it does, then you might need to use a timer to turn the heat mat on and off occasionally to bring it down to the right range (or get a thermostat).

If you place the cutting by a south/west facing window, be careful that the cutting does not cook should direct sunlight dramatically elevated the temperature within.

Other notes:

An inexpensive timer is used here to turn off the light from 11pm to 6am.

My heat mat is left on 24/7.

If rooting the cutting during the growing season(spring and summer), just the jar by the window will work, although it might take longer than when artificial light and heat is used.

This post will be updated regularly. Links to rooting pictorials will be added. PLease take regular pictures of your rooting and growing process if you’d like it to feature here. Some root their cutting in moss; others directly in soil.

Water , although not the most straight forward method, allows you to see what’s going on without having to pull up the cutting regularly to see if it is rooting.

The switch to soil

So, after over 3 winter months rooting in water on the heat mat, our cutting has developed a good mass of roots. See pictures.

Now (March) it’s the time to gradually introduce it to soil.

I worked out that the best approach would be surrounding the water roots with sphagnum moss and sitting the cutting into a transparent pot half filled with moist soil –A transparent pot makes it easier to monitor what the roots are doing

This way, the roots works gradually mice through the moss and then down into the soil.

The amount of light and the temperature of the soil are the most important things to remember when growing this plant. Keep the soil at around 25c. So after moving it, we place back onto the heat mat so that there’d no change in the temperature range the cutting is already used to.

The roots should eventually move down into the soil. Keep the moss moist.
Once the roots have moved down into the soil, it will be safe to cover the moss.
Maybe the moss could be covered right at the start but i haven’t tried this approach.

Pictures show the switch in action.

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Rooting Hoyas in Perlite

You’re reading this article and, maybe, this is the first time you’re rooting hoya cuttings.

I remember rooting my first hoya very clearly back in 2016. You can read about that experience in detail here

Some hoyas will strike roots faster or better depending on the media used. Over the years I’ve used water, then soil, then soil with sand or perlite and then, now, just perlite. This article is about using perlite .

Look at the picture of two Hoya Vitelinoides cuttings (picture taken in July 2019)

You can see how the cutting on the right, rooted in pure perlite,  has a greater root mass than the one on the left, which rooted in a mix of 50/50 perlite and compost. So, I’ve found that perlite is the best medium for rooting cuttings; It will give your plants the best chance at forming a strong root system early in life before being moved to a different mix for growing.

Method 1:

Hoyas Obscura cuttings rooting by a window in the summer

In this method i used two strawberry containers of the same size. One holds the perlite,the other creates a mini greenhouse. The two halves can be held together with selo tape and then be placed in a saucer by a window. This method will work during the growing season, but it’s not recommended during the winter as more light and warmth is required for rooting.

Note: for quite little, a small heat mat and LED light could be used to boost rooting in the summer AND make it work in the winter.

Method two:

Hoyas and philodendrons in terrariums over a heat cable with an LED strip light . This arrangement is far from a window, two separate timers control the amount of heat and light the plants receive daily.

What follows here is my method of rooting Hoya cuttings in bulk in perlite terrariums with heat cables and long LED strip Lights.

What’s involved:

one (or more) clear plastic box(es). Mine is 70 litres (A clear cover is required to allow light in when the lid is on. It should be obvious but I will say it just in case: Do not drill the base of the box for drainage 🙂 we’re building a terrarium and they need no drainage)

A heat cable(the type used in hot bed propagators or reptile terrariums. A short one (3 metres) should be sufficient for just one box. Add 2 meters for every extra box.

Led light


A Thermometer

A 12cm layer of perlite in each box is recommended. This works great in the sense that I don’t need add water very regularly.


  1. This box should probably NOT be placed by a south facing or east facing window as direct sunlight can create very high temperatures within which will cause all the cuttings to be cooked if you forget to water and id there’s enough ventilation in place. It’s achievable but it’s dangerous if the ventilation is not adjusted between sunny and cold weather days. North facing windows are safe –as is any room, with the aid of artificial lighting.

2. Heat cables come with warnings. So be sensible! It’s not impossible for fires or electric shock to occur if these devices get damaged. So, It’s safer if the heat cable never sits in water or in direct contact with the box. I have several of these and never experienced any fires or shocks.

The lid will have to be perforated so that there’s sufficient air flowing out. Don’t use a drill as it might crack the lid; rather, use a hot iron bar to burn holes in. I did this part in my kitchen, warming up the iron bar on the cooker. A vile smell of plastic fumes hung in the air afterwards –complaints of those I live with also RUNG in my ears for even longer, so be warned 🙂

When you’ve assembled the box(es) with a 12 cm layer of moist perlite, perforated the lid with 8 or more holes, placed the box where it will live; placed the heat cable underneath it (with a bit of card board or something else in between); turned it on :-); After 60 minutes or so, it’s now time to use a thermometer to measure the temperature within. 22C to 27C is what I recommend. Monitor the temperature for a couple of hours. If the temperature is too high, then use a timer to turn the heat source on and off on intervals. During the summer, my heat cables are turned on and off every 30 minutes. Some people use a thermostat which, I guess, can be even more effective but I don’t use those as a timer will do similar. Either way, ensure there’s a temperature range mentioned above. Adjustments will likely be needed come winter or summer. So don’t forget this detail.

Although having artificial light is not altogether essential, it’s highly recommended. My artificial lights(cool-white LED striping) stay on 18 hours every day!

Once you know the temperature in the box is in the above range, is time to plant your cuttings in 🙂

Hoyas rooting in a perlite terrarium

If you like rooting your plants in very high humidity, be careful with suculent hoyas like Pachyclada and Kerrii –The cut must be healed BEFORE planting them in this sort of arrangement.

You might ask: what happens once I see that it has roots? Is this the moment to move them to soil.

Good question.

Roots will keep developing while the cutting is in the perlite. Ideally, cuttings should only be moved to soil once you see new growth forming. That means that the roots are during enough, or SO STRONG, that the cutting begun growing. Roots precede growth!

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Rooting my first hoya cutting

It was the last week of May 2016. If you live North of the Equator, you know it’s the begining of the summer, that time of the year when I — or should I say everyone– acquire more plants 😎

The fully grown Hoya Carnosa I’d been given by a Malaysian lady (her husband didn’t like the scent of the flowers) was in bloom and the smell one evening triggered a memory. Fragrances are powerful at bringing back old memories, aren’t they? The memory was, up to that moment, of an unknown house plant I’d seen 8 years previously when I’d stayed in a lodge in Northamptonshire. That night I’d been overpowered by the smell of a spindly, old-looking vine which was growing in a very small pot. It looked past its best days in terms of foliage but the white flowers, O the white flowers … They were dripping nectar by the litre and produced this sweet scent that could be felt all the way from the reception. This vine was on the landing between the ground and first floors of the inn. However, although I’d asked the staff, no one knew what it was, only saying that some lady on holiday, a member of staff, owned the plant.

Now I knew what that plant was.

I even looked up the the cottage to ring again and ask if that lady and the plant were still there. Alas, the place longer existed! 🙄

Now, that memory behind me, that mystery solved, I NEEDED more Hoyas. I soon found myself on the internet reading about Hoyas, and if you’re an addict –owns more than one– You know where this is going.
Cutting a long story short, a week later I had more young Hoyas arriving in the mail, including my first unrooted one, a one-leaf cutting of hoya sp Flores Island from a seller from Poland who was offering more than 50 varieties of hoyas. This one had beautiful veined leaves which remind me of very green and hilly terrain as viewed from a helicopter. After looking up this Hoya, I saw the flowers were also very attractive. Anyway, twig in hand and head in a mess, I begun asking myself: Can I root this thing like I’ve rooted roses?

After further reading on rooting hoyas, I decided to root the cutting in a lose mix of moist moss and sand (don’t laugh, it was my first!)…in the same way I’d rooted roses but this time placing the cokebottle-covered pot by my sunniest window –and hoping for the best.

“Were you worried?”, you’re asking. Of course I was…the cutting I’d bought left no margin for error. Please don’t set yourself to fail by buying an one-leaf cutting as your first.

I didn’t fail actually, I was pleasantly surprised 2 weeks later, upon lifting the pot for inspection, to see that many roots had already formed around the clump of moss and sand! Even more delightful was to witness a new cane emerge at the soil level weeks later!! I was now a pro 😎

Hoya Sp Flores Island is a great looking Hoya. It doesn’t bloom fast but it is the very Hoya I would pick if I was to illustrate a book and a picture of a bushy Hoya was needed. And, as mentioned above, when I fly by helicopter over Wales or Scotland, it’s of this first baby, a fruit of my loins, that I’m reminded so much about…

And the rest, over 100 Hoyas later, is history.
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Simple and effective method to remove mealy bugs from hoyas

If you’ve been growing Hoyas for at least a year, chances are you’ve come across mealy bugs in your plants by now.
Their white wooly colonies at the base of the leaves are easy to spot and recognize. However, they’re not so easy to get to for the removal of the parasites.

I’ve tried a few methods and made at least one grave mistake along the way till I settled on my current approach.

It’s actually very simple!
So, without further waffling, here’s how to deal with the buggers:

You’ll need:
A spray bottle which also have the “stream” feature;
WATER(tap water is fine)!

How to apply:
1. Fill the bottle with water, preferably tepid, as cold water can shock the plants.

2. Turn the nozzle into “Stream” mode and you’re ready.

3. Point the gun at the bugs, 5 to 10cm away, and blast them! That’s all.
Keep pulling the trigger till the insects are completely soaked and dislodged from their grooves, remembering to check the underside of the leaves. In most cases, spraying once will be enough but be prepared to repeat the process after couple of days if you still see survivors.

Now, if you’ve allowed your plant to become completely infested with bugs, it will be better to take the whole plant into a bathroom, run the shower( adjust the temperature of the water till it feels tepid) and shower the plant, washing off the mealies.

I’ve employed both methods with 100% success. How great it is to have my plants looking great, healthy and pest free!

Note: Some colectors recommend the addition of a spoon of washing up liquid and cooking oil to the spray mix. NO NEED FOR THAT. That’s actually dangerous and it’s how I killed my young Hoya Inflata(of all hoyas) by getting the soap ratio wrong. So be warned :-), use soap and your plant leaves might drop off or end up looking sick.

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Hoya Callistophilla sp Kalimantan, a jet-setter!

Hoyas can be categorised into many, many groups.
I have a personal category which I’ll term the Jet-setter’s club.

This group of hoyas travel really well between both Thailand and my doorstep as well as from my doorstep to my customers in the Americas and other far-flung corners of the Earth. There are many other hoyas in this group, to list a few: Macgillivrayi, Archboldiana, the Finlaysonii family (they’re ‘cousins’ of Callistophyla, so, of coarse), Carnosas, Pubicalyxes many others.

I’ve been selling hoyas for while now and Callistophyla is, no doubt, a great specimen to have around and to sell. My first cutting took two weeks to arrive from Thailand. I came in the same box as h. Glabra. Glabra lost all its leaves which had turned yellow; by contrast, Callistophyla was a sight to behold. It looked like it had been cut that morning! I was in owe. Some will probably argue that it’s unfair to compare the two plants but there you go. I happened to have both on the same order and this was the result. In fact, I’ve imported glabra 3 times now without success! But that’s a topic for another post.

Back to the praises of Callistophilla, it’s beeeeeautiful plant (it’s name, unsurprisingly, means most beautiful leaves). It’s easy to get it to root –and to look after– It grows quickly enough when given a warm corner and good lighting; It blooms quickly too… Now, can you ask any more of such a plant???
This girl goes far!

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Hoya Imports from Overseas

Welcome to!

I remember to this day when successfully rooted my first Hoya cutting (hoya sp Flores Island). I got it from Poland and didn’t know if anything would come from it. I  also recall my first Hoya import.

Back in 2014, after seeing pictures of Hoya Pachycada I couldn’t avoid but search for it everywhere!

After realising I would not easily find in Europe, I turned to Asia. It was interesting approaching  a vendor and seeing that so many plants were available to choose from.  In the end I  chose to import  h. Pachycada Red Corona and  h. sp Estrella Waterfalls IML 1256.

I  was given the option of buying with certificate or without. Boxed or in a gusseted envelope. EMS or tracked regular mail.

Like all first timers, I didn’t know how long it would take for it to arrive–or if it would arrive at all! How pleasantly surprised  I was when I saw the strange brown envelope delivered 2 weeks later. It  had Thai writings all over it, making it look enigmatic and ancient.
Both cuttings travelled well, surviving the long journey to the UK. Importing from Thailand became a pattern, and I managed to increase my collection 10 fold using this method.